Day 4. Wednesday

Wednesday
Tried again to get up early. Had to pack so we could leave luggage at hotel while we went to Acropolis/Parthenon. Finally left and took tram to Syntagma Square, which took awhile.

We got off the tram and stopped to watch the guards and then started walking toward the Acropolis...



We walked by Hadrian's Arch ....



(Elena and I waiting at a light...)

We ended up walking all the way to other side of Acropolis because the woman at the ticket booth said it would be better for me (walking with my cane signals me as disabled.) I'm not sure if she was right, but we walked around and then started up...



Once we made it to the top, we just strolled around looking and taking pictures...all around top, then down through Agora.
(This view is at the top, with the Parthenon behind us. We had a little trouble getting us and the building in the photo!)



(Not sure what I'm doing here--I think walking down some steps and not looking at the view!)


When we got to the bottom, we continued walking, through the Agora and to Hadrian’s library. It was hard to leave but we knew we had a long drive ahead of us. We bought strawberries and bananas to take on drive—there were a bunch of fruit carts just outside Metro station. Took Metro and then tram back to Glyfada and picked up bags at hotel. This is our first attempt at devising a system for packing the car. We have our stuff and also Elena's 2 huge bags which we somehow stuff into the car while leaving enough room for 3 people!

(This picture is either near the Plaka or near the Metro station.)


The drive out of Athens is not much fun...then to Piraeas and driving, driving, driving---trying to remember things from the drive in 1988. And it seems like, all of a sudden, we are crossing the canal! We stopped on the other side and Mike and Elena walked out on the foot bridge to take pictures.


One of the reasons I am so glad we came in May---the red poppies!

They are everywhere. Elena had told us about the mythology of the white poppies coming up red after the Battle of Marathon and how they've spread all over Greece. I had picked one at Marathon and have it pressed in my journal still. This photo was taken from the car as we drove down the road. Elena had it enlarged and gave it to me for Christmas!

Of course, we don't just drive straight to Napflion---Mike takes a couple turns that he thinks will work and then we had to try to retrace our way through these little villages. We were getting a little tired and short tempered when we finally arrive at Napflion around 7. We tried to get our bearings with the map--kind of hard because memories are tricky. We were trying to find hotels that were listed in Elena's book while also driving around and trying to find them! Finally called the Mariana Pension and they have a room and a good rate. When the proprietor asks when we will arrive, we say in a few minutes because we are just down the street/alley! The alley is very narrow and we're not sure we'll be able to turn the car around, so I wait in the car while they go check it out.

What a find!! Maybe I'll make an entire post just on this pension.

We moved our stuff in and then rested and "freshened up" while deciding what to do about dinner. Mike had a recommendation for a restaurant that serves octopus and so we decide to walk down into town and find it. It's down by the water. The name of the restaurant is "octopus" in Greek. These photos do not do justice to the wonderful food. Mike and Elena both had octopus, which Elena learned to love during her time in Greece and Mike remembered eating in Nauplion in 1988.

Like most of places we ate, they didn't rush us and it seemed like we sat there for hours before we finally made ourselves get up and walk back up the hill to the Mariana.

Day 3. Tuesday May 12. Delphi

Delphi
Tried to get up early—finally left around 9-ish—to drive to Delphi. Turns out the trip really is about 3 hours, just as all the books said. About half of that to get north, beyond Athens and then the toll road, then through an agricultural valley, and then over to the roads that take us up into the mountains to Delphi.

Driving through the valley before we get to the mountains reminded me of Salinas and the valley—only the mountains surrounding this valley are something between Sierra’s and Rockies. Not sure what the rocks are here, but they reminded me of Yosemite at one point.

Took tons of pics. I was in back seat and Mike, who was driving, was nervous that I wasn’t getting enough photos.


So I snapped away like crazy!













We drove and drove, up and up and around switchbacks.




Came to a small “Alpine” village, apparently where rich Athenians go for skiing—Arahova—a street full of the cutest shops. We were tempted to stop and shop.

But we push on and around and around and then, around a bend and we’re there.






So—Delphi—another un-describable place. I have had so many people tell me to be sure to go there and now I know why.







(This photo is our first--taken from our parking spot on the road, looking down at another temple area but I can't remember its name.)


After we enter, we start upwards on the "Sacred Way" and walk by all of the "treasuries" for the different Greek cities...the Treasury of the Athenians and so on. When they came, they would make "offerings" which were left at their city's treasury.



(The Treasury of the Athenians)




Looking down at the Temple, where the Oracle did her thing.






It's a little confusing because during the Byzantine era--Delphi was taken over by Christians and so there are leftover Christian symbols mixed in with the ancient Greek ruins.







The Amphitheater. Elena is doing her tour guide thing.






Elena had been a little nervous about me being able to handle Delphi, because you are basically walking up the side of a mountain.





We found a nice shady spot just above the temple and so we sat there to rest and cool off while Mike continued up to see the stadium.


When he returned, we started back down and then went over to the museum which is important to see because that is where all the artifacts are!

But I had hit a wall of some sort and decided I was too tired to do the museum so I went over to get something to drink and go to the gift shop. I bought a postcard to mail to Tom because he was probably the most persuasive about the need to come here—however the gift shop didn’t have stamps so after we left, we stopped in the village of Delphi—stopped at internet café and ate a snack and addressed the postcard—then down street to post it. We really would have liked to hang around some more, but it looked like a storm was coming and we left to go “home” to Glyfada.

We reversed our route, leaving the village of Delphi, driving past the site, back through Arahova, down into the valley and back toward Athens. We stopped along the way in the valley for a snack.



(The very narrow street in Delphi. Looking west between buildings.)










We got back to Glyfada around 7:30 and we stopped along the water across the road from the hotel. The beach is very rocky, with lots of broken shells, but Elena stuck her feet in the water. We just sat there for awhile, watching the sunset.

Had to go to Vodaphone store so Elena could add minutes to her phone card and I went to ATM for Euros and then we went back to the hotel to wait for Lilly and Laki—for very late dinner—maybe even late by Greek standards.


We finally walked a few streets over and ate at a gyro place. George zoomed up on his motorcycle and met us. It was so amazing to me that I recognized them both immediately! They are both a little shy about their English and so Lilly did alot of translating. She is quite good at it. We talked about all of our Greek-American relatives and tried to bring them up to date on everyone. We made arrangements for George to meet us in Tripoli and take us to Episkopi on Saturday---he will attempt to translate for us at Georgia and Soterios' house!


Tomorrow, Acropolis. Then across at Corinth to Nauplion and Tolo and Mycenae and Sparta and then Tripoli and Kerasitsa/Episkopi.

Day 2. Closed on Mondays

Monday May 11


Ate breakfast at hotel and then moved to Four Seasons—where Lilly’s family company sends guests. Drove to Marathon and then all the way to Sounio to see the Temple of Poseidon. Ate dinner in Glyfada at a crepe place.






I'm not sure how to describe this day. We saw so much--it was a great way to start our touring. We spent much of the day trying to figure out where we were and where we were going! Was a late start and we weren’t sure of route. Ended up driving up hills of Athens and eventually came upon signs that seemed to send us in the right direction. Even after asking a toll booth clerk, and following her directions; even when we actually saw signs that said Marathon--we still weren't sure. We took many false turns and made many u-turns. BUT—along the way we saw some awesome real estate (some of which burned in fires since we were there) and were disappointed when we found that every place we wanted to see was CLOSED ON MONDAY!!



We stopped at the Marathon Museum, The Trophy (the column), The Tumulus (the mound)







Left: Mike, walking back to car after inspecting the Trophy.




A small private chapel (which was open!) that was next to the "Trophy" which is a tall column that marks the spot where there was something honoring those who died in the battle.
….we found a blue line painted in the street and figured it must be the route for the marathon race. Even though everything was closed, we took pictures of everything we could see.



LUNCH!
We headed south on the road and were looking for any place to eat.









Finally, Elena said just turn here and there was a tiny little place with a counter and a couple tables, but then across the street/alley were a few tables too. I suppose it was sort of a little square. We usually ordered a few things we could share...always looking for the perfect souvlaki or gyro!

Started driving south again and while we’re driving we were sort of looking for/hoping to see the Temple of Artemis that was supposed to be somewhere. Every time we gave up, we’d see something that made us think we must be close. We figured it would be closed too, but we’re kinda psyched for sticking to the search and sort of pretending that we are simply out for a drive.

Then we rounded a turn and there it was! Also closed but we took pictures as usual! Mike and Elena stood on the shoulder of the road to get some shots.



We kept driving south---assuming that at some point we will find Sounio, because we know it's at the tip of the peninsula and we do see signs.

Along the way, as we drive along the coast, we stopped to take in the view. It is just beautiful! But we keep pushing on because we hope to get to the Temple of Poseidon in time for sunset.

Elena, our trusty tour guide assures us it will be worth it.



And of course, once again, we come around a turn and BOOM! There it is!!






I’m not sure I can even describe it! Was it just because we found something open? Don’t think so. It is truly, simply awesome! We drive as far as we can and then park. The entrance is not real obvious—we walk around building and see the gate.

So we start up the hill which is pretty rocky and challenging for me at least.



It’s amazing to see so much of the temple actually standing. Of course, I’m not sure how big it was originally! We just sort of wandered around, looking, taking pictures, enjoying the atmosphere. Elena tells us the story of the King who throws himself off the cliffs in despair because he thinks his son the prince has died. Don't the Greeks ever get tired of tragic irony?

Best line of the day is a couple who are taking pictures and the wife wants the Aegean for her background and the husband wants the temple for the background, and finally the husband says, Honey, you can get a sunset anytime, we’re at the Temple of Poseidon!!




Elena poses as Artemis because she’s adopting her as her goddess and wants to be Artemis at camp this summer.


We decided we wanted a little refreshment so we decide to go back to the restaurant and eat something and then come back up—after we make sure they’ll let us back through the gate. So, at 7:45, Mike and Elena head back up. I didn't think I could make it back up the hill but after I sat there for a few minutes, I realized I just could not miss out on this experience. So I ran back up the hill. I was pretty out of breath, but I made it, and found them. All these people were sitting at the edge of the cliff, watching the sunset!!



Quite the communal experience! Some tour guide read a poem in Portugese or something. Then the docents started blowing their whistles to clear the place out! Reluctantly, we drag ourselves away, go back to the car and head back to Athens. Up the western side of Attica! The road follows the water all the way up to Glyfada.


We arrive back at the hotel pretty late, but of course, we are hungry so we decide to eat first and drive around the side streets looking. Finally we park and end up at a crepe place! Well, one doesn't have to eat Greek food for every meal. It was good. We are pretty tired and have another busy day tomorrow, so we head for the hotel and bed. Delphi tomorrow!

Day 1. To Greece

May 9-10. On the plane.
7PM by Mike’s watch. Which means we’re only a short way out—according to the info on the screen we’re past St. Jean and are over the Atlantic. 3852 km distance from Dulles, going 626 mph @ 38,000 ft. The outside temp is -49c

4 more hours to destination. 5:38 to land. Flight is full—or short by 2 or 3 seats. Already had dinner—not the best but a lot of it! And they serve these cute mini baguettes and no extra $ for wine!

I already watched a movie—Last Chance Harvey with Emma Thomson and Dustin Hoffman. Not bad. Then got up and walked to back of plane to stretch and use lav. The cabin lights are off. Guess I should sleep.


May 10
Arrival—Athini—Glyfada
Got luggage. Kept expecting to go through something to get passport stamped but realized we were coming from an EU country (France)—so no stamp for getting into Greece! Oh well—

So first—landed @ CDG airport and headed for terminal with D2 gates, as instructed—round and round and up and down and then smack into a crowd waiting to go through for passport check! Argh! Then this guy (an official type) yells out “D2 follow me” so we do, and finally end up in another line with no indication it will lead us to D2 but we get in line and work our way to guy in booth who stamps passports and we go through and down stairs and finally see more official looking people and a sign with an arrow and follow it and finally find our gate!! Just in time. Not crowded at all except our row which has all three seats taken. Finally they close the cabin doors so Mike moves across aisle and I move over.

I bought a new copy of Lily and the Lost Boy by Paula Fox, and have been reading it. It’s great easy-reading for the plane. (It's about a young girl living on a Greek island with her family.) So on our approach to Athens, I’m feeling like I don’t recognize anything and find out later that this is not the same Athens airport we landed at in 1988! A little disappointing, but it also means an easier entrace…e.g. no lost luggage!

We had e-mailed back and forth with "the relatives" and Lilly, who is the wife of Laki Andrianopoulos, is going to meet us at the airport. She and Laki have already met Elena when she came through Athens in February and also when Elena was there during Spring break. Just before we left, we made reservations on-line at a hotel in Glyfada which is where they live.

So after getting bags, you go through these doors where people are waiting for family etc on other side---also people standing with signs, e.g. “SESMA”. Mike bought a phone card and I call Lilly who is 5 minutes out! I tell her we are sitting in front of the HERTZ counter. I went to get H2O and she finds Mike easily because he’s wearing a Nats cap!

After we get our rental car, we follow Lilly home to Glyfada. Glyfada (or Glyphada) is an Athens suburb, about 20 minutes from Athens. They call it the Greek Riviera. She feeds us an amazing lunch and then leads us to the hotel where we check in and rest. The hotel is called “John’s Hotel” and is nice enough but already Lilly is saying she’ll find us a better and cheaper place to stay. She puts people who visit their office at a Best Western that is on the main drag, facing the water.

["Light Lunch" courtesy of Lilly Kotsonis Andreanopolis. ]








After we rest a little, we go to airport to get Elena who is arriving from Rhodes with all of her luggage and things she has collected since February. Then we came back to hotel. Our room is tiny. Three twin beds with about an inch between.

I wish I could describe the hotel. Every time we walk through the lobby, there's old Greek men sitting, watching soccer, smoking. There's supposed to be a restaurant, but we couldn't figure out how to get served, so we decide to go out walking to find dinner and walk up to the other main drag of Glyfada where the shops and restaurants are located. We stopped to eat at a place with tables outside. We ate “light” again---salad, pork and chicken souvlaki, gyro pita, grilled veggies.

We walked back to hotel and tried to get on internet for awhile. Enough to check mail and update Facebook. Then sleep.

[The view from our room. A little noisy in the morning. But we are happy to see water!
The photos on the hotel web site look alot nicer than the reality. http://www.johnsathens.com]

Gut Feelings

June 10, 2009

A month later. Guess I didn’t do a very good job with this! It was too much hassle to blog from Greece. We didn’t always have good internet service and when we did, we had to share computers…and by the time we all checked email and Facebook we were exhausted from our day. Anyway, I did record our travels in my journal and will transcribe that here and also add to it from my memories.

Then, two days before we returned we received the news that my Mom had died. That really took the wind out of our sails and we went through Sunday and Monday in a daze. We had scheduled Monday for shopping for gifts at the Plaka in Athens. We did shop but our hearts were barely in it. The trip home was long and sad. Then we spent one day at home before going to California for the funeral. More on that later too.

The trip to Greece was absolutely wonderful. I don’t think there were any really bad parts. There’s just something about the place…kind of gets me in the gut…or I should say in my heart. Some sort of mystical pull. I think I have a sense of how much my grandmother must have spent her entire life in the U.S. longing to return to Greece. It must have been so painful for her. I sure wish I could talk to her now.