Monday, January 11, 2010

Day 7. Saturday: Leaving Mystras. Visiting the relatives.

Day 7. Saturday. Mystras to Tripoli. The relatives.

Breakfast.
We sort of kept lingering because we didn’t want to leave this magical place.

We really loved sitting in this village square, watching the life of the village. Mike took some photos from the balcony of our room and we walked around a little more to take a few more.






The bus to Sparta pulls in and there's a line of people apparently going to Sparta. The usual old Greek men are sitting on benches.
















Later, I will regret not buying my souvenirs here. I was so afraid I'd find something better later and not have any money left. Oh well.

We really just like sitting here.

It's so peaceful.



But we finally finished our breakfast and payed our breakfast bill and the bill for "Rooms to Let" and then packed up the car one more time to leave Mystras. We probably would have stayed if we didn't have the realtives expecting us! But then, we made one more stop in Sparta because Elena wanted us to see the Museum of the Olive which she had visited back in February.
So we stopped at the Olive Museum on our way through Sparta. Elena had been there with her study abroad people.


Olive press.



Oil lamps, with modern light.


According to the chart, you can use every part of the olive tree!




Somehow Elena hadn't signed the guest book in February so she added her name to the list!



Then back on the road to drive to Tripoli --- not quite sure what the deal was with this truck... I guess that's the sheep dog?


Before we got to Tripoli, we turned and drove around to get the feel of Kerasitsa. Well, Kerasitsa--or I should say-- the house where my father was born is literally on this main road. So we stopped and took a few pictures at the church and in the street. The old house has been "updated" since 1988 and I probably wouldn't recognize it but for the church being there and of course, this sign on the wall!




The sign has been there for a long time...at least since 1988. I think it was there in 1979 when Tom was there...not sure about 1968 when Sue was there. It says something like Street Where the Americans Lived.




And, of course, if ever we're not sure if this is the right place, there's this marker at the door of the church. The Chicago Sons of Kerasitsa helped build the church! That would be my grandfather, among others!

Then we went in to Tripoli and drove around the city looking for a hotel. Called 3 places that were listed in Elena's book and then ended up at the Arcadia because they had availability. We checked in and called George. We went down to wait for him and he came and but then we decided we’d wait for him to come back—I think Georgia and Soterios were not ready for us.

We rested for awhile while waiting for George to come back. Watched “Splash” on tv—in English with Greek subtitles. That was kinda weird.

Finally, we meet George and followed him to Kerasitsa and made another stop at the church and house where Ang was born.


































The front of the church.













(Just FYI--Kerasitsa is my father's birthplace, aka home of the Adamopoulis family. George and Laki are the sons of Georgia & Sotirios Andreanopoulis....and their village is Episkopi, basically around the corner or across a field in the old days. My dad's mother was an Andreanopoulis.)

Then we drove the short distance over to Georgia and Sotirios' house. This is a new house, built since we were here in 1988. It's on the same property as the old house.

Soterios wasn’t there at first and so we just sat on the porch and visited.

After Soterios got home, Georgia brought out pastries and coffee and her amazing cherry cordial.


















Eventually, we went in for dinner....







I "help" Georgia with the pork and potatoes.









While we were sitting outside, we had seen Georgia go out to the chicken cages--apparently she was collecting eggs for dinner. They were SO AMAZING!! She just boiled and sliced them and dressed them with a light vinegarette.


Just a simple tomato salad. Then for dessert, more pastry and coffee.



In my second favorite story of the night...Mike makes Sotirios very happy when he picks up his pork and eats it off the bones. Mike was much happier as well.

After dinner, we sat around the table in what I consider to be Greek-style, because that is what we always did in Chicago at the Greek relatives. It was actually pretty hysterical because of the language issue. But it felt very comfortable. I got out my genealogy stuff hoping to ask some questions, which was probably silly, given the translation problems. Finally, Soterios says to me, "Elizabeth already did this!" Of course, that is Betty, my Mom. So that was the end of that discussion. Then I open the computer to show them pictures of various people and try to "catch them up"--another laugh because they are quite up to date, thanks to Jane Corson, "Iawanna" who calls them every week! Sotirios decides to try and call her, but doesn't get through.

Mike loves talking about Apple Computers. Elena has heard it all before.

Then, the highlight of the evening. Sotirios tells the story of when my brother Mark came to visit and how they were all sitting around "visiting" and it was time to go, but no one knew what to do.

Finally, George says, "STAND UP!" and of course everyone stands up. I know the story right away, as soon as I hear Sotirios say "Mark." George translates for us, but I already know the story!
I'll post the video on a separate page.

It was getting late and we decided to come back in the AM for coffee before we went back to Athens. George had to drive back to Athens so we will have to be on our own in the morning! We felt confident that we would manage. So we went back to the hotel.

By the way, did I describe the hotel already? In Elena's guidebook, it's described as a charming old hotel ..... but apparently it's been updated since that publication date. It is now an ultra-modern hotel--very sleek. So sleek that the sink and toilet in our room is SQUARE!! It's kind of difficult to be serious in the bathroom.



The room itself is very WHITE and spare. Luckily, we are very tired and go to sleep pretty easily, once we've all gone on-line and checked email and Facebook!

Day 6: Friday. Sparta, Mystras, Rooms-to-let

Day 6. Friday

We woke up, feeling a little sad to be leaving Nauplio. So we may have sat on the rooftop terrace a little too long.

We were trying to get directions from there to Sparta and it turns out that we drove from Nauplion to Tripoli to Sparta. We had driven down part of that road from Tripoli to Sparta in 1989 to see a World War II memorial along the road.

Before leaving, I made Mike take pictures of the stairs from our room to the terrace, just to have proof that I had climbed them! (I'll post them on another page.) The photo below shows the building our rooms were in...bottom floor, lowest building...on the alley.


We entered to a small room with a table and the bathroom off to the side. Then up stairs to the bedrooms. Those stone steps go up to the other buildings and to the rooftop terrace which you can see at the top--the awning over the terrace. Stairs and more stairs. But we loved it.
It was about a 2 hour drive from here to Sparta, and was kind of weird to just drive through Tripoli and then Episkopi and Kerasitsa, but we knew we were coming back there to see the relatives. We finally made it to Sparta which is a relatively large town/city. We just drove through Sparta to the town of Mystras to get an idea of distance. We thought we would go back to stay in Sparta but after driving most of the way to the fortress and turning around to come back, we stopped at a place with sign “Rooms to Let” that we had seen on our way UP the hill.

This picture was taken later and shows the approach coming DOWN from the fortress.



We didn't realize that everyone used the town square for a parking lot or we would have pulled in and parked! So Mike sort of pulled over as much as he could and Elena and I jumped out and went in but we went in on the bakery side (decided we must go back and buy diples! they look so good!) so the women at the bakery took us over to restaurant.

A young women comes out and I ask for a triple? Yes, she says they have one. 45 euros! So she took us to see it and we said fine and she left—saying something about come around with ID after we get bags. So then we do pull in to the square and turn in to tiny alley to park the car. We brought the bags in and washed up and then went to eat at the restaurant.

So much for staying in Sparta!

We didn't eat at the tables showing in the photo above, but when we went in the front door, we saw there were tables on a side patio so we sat out there.

Ordered tomato salad,
tzatziki (yougurt, cucumber, garlic, dill)






local sausage,














melitzanosalata (eggplant salad)




oh, and bread and water. Does it get any better?
Note the olive pits!

We went back up to our room for a bit and then back to the car to drive up the hill and see the fortress.

When we got up there, I realized it was going to be more than I could handle to hike up to the top, so I passed on this one. Mike and Elena hiked up and back in an hour or so and I waited in the car in the small parking area.

That’s me down there in the dark car to the left of the row of red things piled up.















When Mike and Elena came back down from the fortress/palace, we drove partway back down the mountain to the monastery and “town” or walled city. I walked with them around to the “front” gate and I did enter and went up just a little bit, but it was so steep, it made me pretty nervous and a bit dizzy. So I wimped out and went down and back out through the gate and sat on a low wall to write in my journal. It was very pleasant and peaceful and I could have stayed for hours if it had been a tad more comfortable!

Here are some pictures that Mike and Elena took:

It’s pretty incredible—a fortress, a palace, a walled city with fortress and monastery and churches.



























I don't know if Mystras is listed in many tour books--we didn't really study tour books for this trip--but it is worth it to spend some time here. Just go to Sparta and then turn west. There is something magical about it...maybe it's all the battles fought here to control the land. It has Byzantine, Venitian, and Turkish occupation history. Just make sure you wear good shoes for hiking.






By the time they finished and came back to find me, it was late afternoon. Probably 5 or 6 PM. So we drove down and back to “Rooms to Let” and more resting.

Elena and I went in to the bakery to check it out because I had seen diples in the display window so we had to get some and also some kourbiedes!! We ate one diples right away! Yum…

We decided to eat “early” but thought we shouldn't be too early so we “promenaded” around the town square trying to build up some appetite and ended up back to same restaurant to eat. There were a few choices and normally we would spread our money around, but we really liked "our" place.







We ended up eating and then sitting for hours.
(As usual, we get our mezes: great white beans, moussaka, chicken with potatoes, roast pork with crispy skin, salad, fried cheese, bread, wine.)




It was great entertainment to watch the town from our table…all the old Greek men sitting around the square…cars pulling in, right into the square…people jump out and run into market or bakery—especially after bread gets delivered. A truck pulls in and a guy jumps out and walks around with bags of cucumbers…the little daughter of waitress(?) or bakery lady(?) or someone---sort of being watched by everyone until papa (apparently) comes home from work. He is a fireman, based on the fact that he’s wearing fireman’s gear!

And then they brought ouzo to the table, so we had to drink that!


Finally, we decided we'd better get some sleep because tomorrow is the BIG DAY. We'll drive back to Tripoli and then meet the RELATIVES!