Tuesday. Eat. Pack. Leave.
Well, just because I've written about every day of the trip, I'll include this last day. Unfortunately, we don't have any photos! We didn't take many, but then Elena lost most of hers when her hard drive died. She had taken a few from the airplane as we took off and were leaving Greek airspace.
It was a travel day, so all we did was finish packing, eat a little breakfast, then drive to the airport. The rest of the day was spent in planes and airports!
I'm going to post some more of my favorite pictures later, including the stairs at the Mariana in Nauplion. Also the video of Sotirios telling the story of "stand up."
In spite of the sad ending, this trip far exceeded any expectations I had for it. I didn't get all the honey I hoped to bring back. That's probably good, because it actually takes awhile to finish off a jar of honey. We still have one jar we haven't opened.
I have much more to say about the trip, and plan to tell you about Betty's funeral, and then maybe I'll just keep writing...til who knows when. In any case, this brings us to the end of this part of Honey Lights!
γνῶθι σαὐτόν
Know Thyself!
Monday, January 11, 2010
Monday. Last day. Trying to shop
Monday. Last full day.
To be perfectly honest, I don't think any of us remember much about this day. It seemed like such a good idea to save the last day for shopping and not have any plans. I guess it was...we probably weren't capable of much.
As we did everyday...we got up and went down to a breakfast buffet at the hotel. It was simple, but somehow perfect. How can you go wrong with yogurt, honey, fruit, a little pastry, a boiled egg, and of course, coffee.
We walked the few blocks to take the tram into Athens for shopping at Plaka. We took the tram to Syntagma Square and then walked to Plaka. We managed to get a few gifts but our hearts were no longer in it. We spent nearly an hour in a leather shop trying to pick leather bags for the girls. We couldn't even make that decision! Well, we did, but it took almost an hour!!
We ate lunch and then took the tram back to Glyphada.
We needed some internet so we went to Starbucks where we knew we could get internet (Elena’s ticket was messed up, thanks to my error, and we had to get a new one. Also, we needed to check emails about the funeral plans.)
It was pretty late (but normal dinner time in Greece!) and we walked around looking to find a restaurant for dinner—checking menus—and finally ended up at “Georges and Zachs”.
One more amazing meal before leaving Greece. The waiter let us go back and pick our food...they didn't have all the menu items left! There was a large group of some sort, so we figured maybe they had eaten all the food!!
This group provided us entertainment....it was two long tables full of Greeks celebrating something...They were singing and having a grand time. Should have taken a video but we were really kind of out of it.
I don't think we were rushed through any of our meals in Greece. This night was no exception. We really just wanted to sit around and stare into space! What better place to do that than in Greece!
Finally, we went back to the hotel to pack, check emails, talk to Amelia, sleep a little.
To be perfectly honest, I don't think any of us remember much about this day. It seemed like such a good idea to save the last day for shopping and not have any plans. I guess it was...we probably weren't capable of much.
As we did everyday...we got up and went down to a breakfast buffet at the hotel. It was simple, but somehow perfect. How can you go wrong with yogurt, honey, fruit, a little pastry, a boiled egg, and of course, coffee.
We walked the few blocks to take the tram into Athens for shopping at Plaka. We took the tram to Syntagma Square and then walked to Plaka. We managed to get a few gifts but our hearts were no longer in it. We spent nearly an hour in a leather shop trying to pick leather bags for the girls. We couldn't even make that decision! Well, we did, but it took almost an hour!!
We ate lunch and then took the tram back to Glyphada.
We needed some internet so we went to Starbucks where we knew we could get internet (Elena’s ticket was messed up, thanks to my error, and we had to get a new one. Also, we needed to check emails about the funeral plans.)
It was pretty late (but normal dinner time in Greece!) and we walked around looking to find a restaurant for dinner—checking menus—and finally ended up at “Georges and Zachs”.
One more amazing meal before leaving Greece. The waiter let us go back and pick our food...they didn't have all the menu items left! There was a large group of some sort, so we figured maybe they had eaten all the food!!
This group provided us entertainment....it was two long tables full of Greeks celebrating something...They were singing and having a grand time. Should have taken a video but we were really kind of out of it.
I don't think we were rushed through any of our meals in Greece. This night was no exception. We really just wanted to sit around and stare into space! What better place to do that than in Greece!
Finally, we went back to the hotel to pack, check emails, talk to Amelia, sleep a little.
Sunday. Goodbyes and Back to Athens
Sunday, May 17.
We got up and went downstairs to eat some breakfast. We didn’t want to show up hungry at Georgia’s! We packed up, checked out, loaded up the car and then drove to Episkopi to see Georgia and Soterios again. I wish we had pictures of us loading the car – or should I say attempting to load it! Or even a picture of it loaded! Oh well.
We didn’t go to Georgia & Sotirios’ right off, but made a small detour through the village.
We had seen the sign for this temple (Temple of Alea Athina) and wanted to check it out.
Later, Georgia & Sotiros showed it to us as well. I still wonder if this might have been a place my father ran through as a child! They didn’t excavate it until fairly recently. That bell tower is at the church in Kerasitsa.
(a few more pictures are below)
We made our way to the house—I took pictures so that next time, I’ll be able to find it on my own.
It was a beautiful morning, but VERY windy. We all commented on the wind while we sat at the table drinking our coffee.
Our visit is hard to describe, but even though it could have been really awkward because of the communication gap, it wasn’t at all uncomfortable.
Or at least I was not uncomfortable.
Here’s a photo of us—we had all the dictionaries out!
Here is one of my all-time favorite photos.
Elena and Sotirios laughing over an inside joke.
After “visiting”---i.e. sitting around table smiling at each other while drinking coffee and eating pastries---I asked Georgia if we could go to the cemeteries so Elena could see where relatives are buried. She seemed to think it was a strange request, but maybe she was just surprised.
Looking from the porch of the new house across the yard to the old house.
This patio is where we had an incredible pig roast feast in 1988.
During that 1988 visit we all sat out on the balcony which
overlooks the driveway--the scene of our tearful goodbyes that summer.
The old kitchen where we "helped" Georgia prepare that amazing feast. Now, Georgia stores her cherry cordial here. The jar with the red top made it all the way home in my suit
case!
I wanted Elena to see this old house where her grandfather had once visited his own grandmother. He used to tell us that he would run across the fields from one grandmother's house to the other. It's the house that all my siblings visited over the years. Now Georgia uses it for storage and had gone over to get get me some of her cherry cordial!
So we went to the cemeteries in Episkopi and Kerasitsa and lit candles and walked around looking for names we recognized. First we went to the church in Episkopi. This is my paternal grandmother's village.
Soterios leading the way.
We saw a few Andreanopolis names. Georgia’s family is also buried here.
This is Georgia's mother's headstone.
Then we stopped at the temple or the Sanctuary of Alea Athena – they seemed very proud to h
ave these ruins to show us. Of course, we had no idea what they were trying to tell us…and we didn't know how to tell them we had seen it already. Actually, we were excited to have another few minutes to see what we could and take a few pictures.
Then we went to the cemetery at Kerasitsa which is where my Grandfather’s (Adamopoulos) family would be b
uried.
Once again we noticed the WIND!
You can see Elena's hair blowing. You probably can't see Mike's shirt billowing. He's standing at the end of the walkway on the right.
Then we went back to the house and took pictures. There were lots of hugs and trying not to cry.
Luckily, the one thing I can say with assurance in Greek, is I love you.
With great difficulty, I hugged them, touched their faces and said I love you very much.
This was probably – no, it was in fact, the hardest place of all to leave. As we pulled out of the driveway, Elena turned around and reported that Georgia was standing there sobbing. Then we all really fought to not cry! We were all a mess. There was a lot of sniffling in that car. Then to the highway and back to Athens. Driving through these mountains....I really understand my Grandmother's reaction to the moutains in southern California. They brought tears to her eyes. She must have spent her whole life dreaming of returning to Episkopi!
Just as we got to Athens, my brother Mark called with news about Mom. I’m not even sure how we navigated our way—for me, it felt like we were driving blind through the streets. Somehow we made it back to the hotel. Lilly called to make sure we had made it back from the village OK and I told her the news and asked her to let Georgia & Sotirios know about Mom. Lilly said we should come over there to eat later.
Now we needed to accomplish even more difficult communication—all the way from Greece to California! Oh and with Amelia and Jennifer in New York! The internet at the hotel was awful so we finally decided to find internet service and went to Starbucks! We paid for some internet access, bought some coffee and sat down to figure out a plan. This was Sunday and we were leaving Tuesday so that was not a problem. However we still needed to get from Maryland to California in time for the funeral.
We were waiting to hear back from Lilly and finally, we went over there for the evening after walking back to the hotel to get the car. We ending up staying until after midnight. We ate some dinner—delivered from a restaurant down the street instead of home cooked by Lilly. But look how good it was!
(Laki says goodnight to his youngest)
It sure did help to spend the evening with family—even though we barely knew them. It was a comfortable way to spend an evening after hearing such heartbreaking news! Lilly understood very well because she had been through it too.
At the end of the evening, more photos and another bittersweet farewell.
The question remains: What was the deal with the wind? Even Georgia and Sotirios thought it was weird. Later, I decided it was my mother’s spirit. I know it doesn't make sense....she wasn't even Greek! But she did have some good times in Greece! And it's not that I think I'm so special that she came all the way to Episkopi to let me know she was leaving...but still....
Now, looking back, I am sure it was her. Some people call the wind Mariah. Now I call the wind Betty.
We got up and went downstairs to eat some breakfast. We didn’t want to show up hungry at Georgia’s! We packed up, checked out, loaded up the car and then drove to Episkopi to see Georgia and Soterios again. I wish we had pictures of us loading the car – or should I say attempting to load it! Or even a picture of it loaded! Oh well.
We didn’t go to Georgia & Sotirios’ right off, but made a small detour through the village.
We had seen the sign for this temple (Temple of Alea Athina) and wanted to check it out.
Later, Georgia & Sotiros showed it to us as well. I still wonder if this might have been a place my father ran through as a child! They didn’t excavate it until fairly recently. That bell tower is at the church in Kerasitsa.
(a few more pictures are below)
We made our way to the house—I took pictures so that next time, I’ll be able to find it on my own.
It was a beautiful morning, but VERY windy. We all commented on the wind while we sat at the table drinking our coffee.Our visit is hard to describe, but even though it could have been really awkward because of the communication gap, it wasn’t at all uncomfortable.
Or at least I was not uncomfortable.
Here’s a photo of us—we had all the dictionaries out!
Here is one of my all-time favorite photos.
Elena and Sotirios laughing over an inside joke.
After “visiting”---i.e. sitting around table smiling at each other while drinking coffee and eating pastries---I asked Georgia if we could go to the cemeteries so Elena could see where relatives are buried. She seemed to think it was a strange request, but maybe she was just surprised.
Looking from the porch of the new house across the yard to the old house.
This patio is where we had an incredible pig roast feast in 1988.
During that 1988 visit we all sat out on the balcony which
overlooks the driveway--the scene of our tearful goodbyes that summer.The old kitchen where we "helped" Georgia prepare that amazing feast. Now, Georgia stores her cherry cordial here. The jar with the red top made it all the way home in my suit
case!I wanted Elena to see this old house where her grandfather had once visited his own grandmother. He used to tell us that he would run across the fields from one grandmother's house to the other. It's the house that all my siblings visited over the years. Now Georgia uses it for storage and had gone over to get get me some of her cherry cordial!
So we went to the cemeteries in Episkopi and Kerasitsa and lit candles and walked around looking for names we recognized. First we went to the church in Episkopi. This is my paternal grandmother's village.
Soterios leading the way.
We saw a few Andreanopolis names. Georgia’s family is also buried here.
This is Georgia's mother's headstone.
Then we stopped at the temple or the Sanctuary of Alea Athena – they seemed very proud to h
ave these ruins to show us. Of course, we had no idea what they were trying to tell us…and we didn't know how to tell them we had seen it already. Actually, we were excited to have another few minutes to see what we could and take a few pictures.Then we went to the cemetery at Kerasitsa which is where my Grandfather’s (Adamopoulos) family would be b
uried.Once again we noticed the WIND!
You can see Elena's hair blowing. You probably can't see Mike's shirt billowing. He's standing at the end of the walkway on the right.
Then we went back to the house and took pictures. There were lots of hugs and trying not to cry.
Luckily, the one thing I can say with assurance in Greek, is I love you.
With great difficulty, I hugged them, touched their faces and said I love you very much.This was probably – no, it was in fact, the hardest place of all to leave. As we pulled out of the driveway, Elena turned around and reported that Georgia was standing there sobbing. Then we all really fought to not cry! We were all a mess. There was a lot of sniffling in that car. Then to the highway and back to Athens. Driving through these mountains....I really understand my Grandmother's reaction to the moutains in southern California. They brought tears to her eyes. She must have spent her whole life dreaming of returning to Episkopi!
Just as we got to Athens, my brother Mark called with news about Mom. I’m not even sure how we navigated our way—for me, it felt like we were driving blind through the streets. Somehow we made it back to the hotel. Lilly called to make sure we had made it back from the village OK and I told her the news and asked her to let Georgia & Sotirios know about Mom. Lilly said we should come over there to eat later.
Now we needed to accomplish even more difficult communication—all the way from Greece to California! Oh and with Amelia and Jennifer in New York! The internet at the hotel was awful so we finally decided to find internet service and went to Starbucks! We paid for some internet access, bought some coffee and sat down to figure out a plan. This was Sunday and we were leaving Tuesday so that was not a problem. However we still needed to get from Maryland to California in time for the funeral.
We were waiting to hear back from Lilly and finally, we went over there for the evening after walking back to the hotel to get the car. We ending up staying until after midnight. We ate some dinner—delivered from a restaurant down the street instead of home cooked by Lilly. But look how good it was!
(Laki says goodnight to his youngest)
It sure did help to spend the evening with family—even though we barely knew them. It was a comfortable way to spend an evening after hearing such heartbreaking news! Lilly understood very well because she had been through it too.
At the end of the evening, more photos and another bittersweet farewell.
The question remains: What was the deal with the wind? Even Georgia and Sotirios thought it was weird. Later, I decided it was my mother’s spirit. I know it doesn't make sense....she wasn't even Greek! But she did have some good times in Greece! And it's not that I think I'm so special that she came all the way to Episkopi to let me know she was leaving...but still....
Now, looking back, I am sure it was her. Some people call the wind Mariah. Now I call the wind Betty.
Day 7. Saturday: Leaving Mystras. Visiting the relatives.
Day 7. Saturday. Mystras to Tripoli. The relatives.
Breakfast.
We sort of kept lingering because we didn’t want to leave this magical place.
We really loved sitting in this village square, watching the life of the village. Mike took some photos from the balcony of our room and we walked around a little more to take a few more.
The bus to Sparta pulls in and there's a line of people apparently going to Sparta. The usual old Greek men are sitting on benches.
Later, I will regret not buying my souvenirs here. I was so afraid I'd find something better later and not have any money left. Oh well.
We really just like sitting here.
It's so peaceful.
But we finally finished our breakfast and payed our breakfast bill and the bill for "Rooms to Let" and then packed up the car one more time to leave Mystras. We probably would have stayed if we didn't have the realtives expecting us! But then, we made one more stop in Sparta because Elena wanted us to see the Museum of the Olive which she had visited back in February.
So we stopped at the Olive Museum on our way through Sparta. Elena had been there with her study abroa
d people.
Olive press.
Oil lamps, with modern light.
According to the chart, you can use every part of the olive tree!
Somehow Elena hadn't signed the guest book in February so she added her name to the list!
Then back on the road to drive to Tripoli --- not quite sure what the deal was with this truck... I guess that's the sheep dog?
Before we got to Tripoli, we turned and drove around to get the feel of Kerasitsa. Well, Kerasitsa--or I should say-- the house where my father was born is literally on this main road. So we stopped and took a few pictures at the church and in the street. The old house has been "updated" since 1988 and I probably wouldn't recognize it but for the church being there and of course, this sign on the wall!
The sign has been there for a long time...at least since 1988. I think it was there in 1979 when Tom was there...not sure about 1968 when Sue was there. It says something like Street Where the Americans Lived.
And, of course, if ever we're not sure if this is the right place, there's this marker at the door of the church. The Chicago Sons of Kerasitsa helped build the church! That would be my grandfather, among others!
Then we went in to Tripoli and drove around the city looking for a hotel. Called 3 places that were listed in Elena's book and then ended up at the Arcadia because they had availability. We checked in and called George. We went down to wait for him and he came and but then we decided we’d wait for him to come back—I think Georgia and Soterios were not ready for us.
We rested for awhile while waiting for George to come back. Watched “Splash” on tv—in English with Greek subtitles. That was kinda weird.
Finally, we meet George and followed him to Kerasitsa and made another stop at the church and house where Ang was born.
The front of the church.
(Just FYI--Kerasitsa is my father's birthplace, aka home of the Adamopoulis family. George and Laki are the sons of Georgia & Sotirios Andreanopoulis....and their village is Episkopi, basically around the corner or across a field in the old days. My dad's mother was an Andreanopoulis.)
Then we drove the short distance over to Georgia and Sotirios' house. This is a new house, built since we were here in 1988. It's on the same property as the old house.
Soterios wasn’t there at first and so we just sat on the porch and visite
d.
After Soterios got home, Georgia brought out pastries and coffee and her amazing cherry cordial.
Eventually, we went in for dinner....
I "help" Georgia with the pork and potatoes.
While we were sitting outside, we had seen Georgia go out to the chicken cages--apparently she was collecting eggs for dinner. They were SO AMAZING!! She just boiled and sliced them and dressed them with a light vinegarette.
Just a simple tomato salad. Then for dessert, more pastry and coffee.
In my second favorite story of the night...Mike makes Sotirios very happy when he picks up his pork and eats it off the bones. Mike was much happier as well.
After dinner, we sat around the table in what I consider to be Greek-style, because that is what we always did in Chicago at the Greek relatives. It was actually pretty hysterical because of the language issue. But it felt very comfortable. I got out my genealogy stuff hoping to ask some questions, which was probably silly, given the translation problems. Finally, Soterios says to me, "Elizabeth already did this!" Of course, that is Betty, my Mom. So that was the end of that discussion. Then I open the computer to show them pictures of various people and try to "c
atch them up"--another laugh because they are quite up to date, thanks to Jane Corson, "Iawanna" who calls them every week! Sotirios decides to try and call her, but doesn't get through.
Mike loves talking about Apple Computers. Elena has heard it all before.
Then, the highlight of the evening. Sotirios tells the story of when my brother Mark came to visit and how they were all sitting around "visiting" and it was time to go, but no one knew what to do.
Finally, George says, "STAND UP!" and of course everyone stands up. I know the story right away, as soon as I hear Sotirios say "Mark." George translates for us, but I already know the story!
I'll post the video on a separate page.
It was getting late and we decided to come back in the AM for coffee before we went back to Athens. George had to drive back to Athens so we will have to be on our own in the morning! We felt confident that we would manage. So we went back to the hotel.
By the way, did I describe the hotel already? In Elena's guidebook, it's described as a charming old hotel ..... but apparently it's been updated since that publication date. It is now an ultra-modern hotel--very sleek. So sleek that the sink and toilet in our room is SQUARE!! It's kind of difficult to be serious in the bathroom.
The room itself is very WHITE and spare. Luckily, we are very tired and go to sleep pretty easily, once we've all gone on-line and checked email and Facebook!
Breakfast.
We sort of kept lingering because we didn’t want to leave this magical place.
We really loved sitting in this village square, watching the life of the village. Mike took some photos from the balcony of our room and we walked around a little more to take a few more.
The bus to Sparta pulls in and there's a line of people apparently going to Sparta. The usual old Greek men are sitting on benches.
Later, I will regret not buying my souvenirs here. I was so afraid I'd find something better later and not have any money left. Oh well.
We really just like sitting here.
It's so peaceful.
But we finally finished our breakfast and payed our breakfast bill and the bill for "Rooms to Let" and then packed up the car one more time to leave Mystras. We probably would have stayed if we didn't have the realtives expecting us! But then, we made one more stop in Sparta because Elena wanted us to see the Museum of the Olive which she had visited back in February.So we stopped at the Olive Museum on our way through Sparta. Elena had been there with her study abroa
d people.Olive press.
Oil lamps, with modern light.
According to the chart, you can use every part of the olive tree!
Somehow Elena hadn't signed the guest book in February so she added her name to the list!
Then back on the road to drive to Tripoli --- not quite sure what the deal was with this truck... I guess that's the sheep dog?
Before we got to Tripoli, we turned and drove around to get the feel of Kerasitsa. Well, Kerasitsa--or I should say-- the house where my father was born is literally on this main road. So we stopped and took a few pictures at the church and in the street. The old house has been "updated" since 1988 and I probably wouldn't recognize it but for the church being there and of course, this sign on the wall!
The sign has been there for a long time...at least since 1988. I think it was there in 1979 when Tom was there...not sure about 1968 when Sue was there. It says something like Street Where the Americans Lived.
And, of course, if ever we're not sure if this is the right place, there's this marker at the door of the church. The Chicago Sons of Kerasitsa helped build the church! That would be my grandfather, among others!
Then we went in to Tripoli and drove around the city looking for a hotel. Called 3 places that were listed in Elena's book and then ended up at the Arcadia because they had availability. We checked in and called George. We went down to wait for him and he came and but then we decided we’d wait for him to come back—I think Georgia and Soterios were not ready for us.
We rested for awhile while waiting for George to come back. Watched “Splash” on tv—in English with Greek subtitles. That was kinda weird.
Finally, we meet George and followed him to Kerasitsa and made another stop at the church and house where Ang was born.
The front of the church.
(Just FYI--Kerasitsa is my father's birthplace, aka home of the Adamopoulis family. George and Laki are the sons of Georgia & Sotirios Andreanopoulis....and their village is Episkopi, basically around the corner or across a field in the old days. My dad's mother was an Andreanopoulis.)
Then we drove the short distance over to Georgia and Sotirios' house. This is a new house, built since we were here in 1988. It's on the same property as the old house.
Soterios wasn’t there at first and so we just sat on the porch and visite
d.After Soterios got home, Georgia brought out pastries and coffee and her amazing cherry cordial.
Eventually, we went in for dinner....
I "help" Georgia with the pork and potatoes.
While we were sitting outside, we had seen Georgia go out to the chicken cages--apparently she was collecting eggs for dinner. They were SO AMAZING!! She just boiled and sliced them and dressed them with a light vinegarette.
Just a simple tomato salad. Then for dessert, more pastry and coffee.
In my second favorite story of the night...Mike makes Sotirios very happy when he picks up his pork and eats it off the bones. Mike was much happier as well.
After dinner, we sat around the table in what I consider to be Greek-style, because that is what we always did in Chicago at the Greek relatives. It was actually pretty hysterical because of the language issue. But it felt very comfortable. I got out my genealogy stuff hoping to ask some questions, which was probably silly, given the translation problems. Finally, Soterios says to me, "Elizabeth already did this!" Of course, that is Betty, my Mom. So that was the end of that discussion. Then I open the computer to show them pictures of various people and try to "c
atch them up"--another laugh because they are quite up to date, thanks to Jane Corson, "Iawanna" who calls them every week! Sotirios decides to try and call her, but doesn't get through.Mike loves talking about Apple Computers. Elena has heard it all before.
Then, the highlight of the evening. Sotirios tells the story of when my brother Mark came to visit and how they were all sitting around "visiting" and it was time to go, but no one knew what to do.
Finally, George says, "STAND UP!" and of course everyone stands up. I know the story right away, as soon as I hear Sotirios say "Mark." George translates for us, but I already know the story!
I'll post the video on a separate page.
It was getting late and we decided to come back in the AM for coffee before we went back to Athens. George had to drive back to Athens so we will have to be on our own in the morning! We felt confident that we would manage. So we went back to the hotel.
By the way, did I describe the hotel already? In Elena's guidebook, it's described as a charming old hotel ..... but apparently it's been updated since that publication date. It is now an ultra-modern hotel--very sleek. So sleek that the sink and toilet in our room is SQUARE!! It's kind of difficult to be serious in the bathroom.
The room itself is very WHITE and spare. Luckily, we are very tired and go to sleep pretty easily, once we've all gone on-line and checked email and Facebook!
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